![]() ![]() The role of the new Chinese beauty buyer takes lessons from Sephora, the LVMH-owned multi-brand beauty retailer, which has played a pioneering role since its launch back in 1970.Īn insider at The Colorist’s buying team highlights how retailers’ relationships with brands have moved towards closer collaboration. After a trial period, new products drop a level if they don’t perform - worst case, they’re removed altogether.” The rise of the beauty buyer in China “Some brands talk big online, but experience officers have found that not a few are exaggerating their value. “Whether a brand dies or not essentially depends on whether it can generate value for consumers,” says Zhang. ![]() Brands selected don’t necessarily translate into sure profit - more tests and feedback from consumers are still required. Multi-brand retailers have to balance large scale with the speed of fast fashion, while also thinking long-term. The iteration is fast and the number of shelves in-store is limited, so the purpose of the selection meeting is to screen even further.” “Based on research and comprehensive analysis of trials, each buyer gives a speech on the selected brand’s products, concepts, long-term development plans and similar competitors. “This is a regular meeting, but attended by the company’s top executives,” explains Zhang. ![]() Next up is the selection meeting, which analyses both the brand and the buyer’s conclusions. After feedback from both reaches our satisfaction standards, only then can a product be considered to have passed the buyer’s barrier.” “Usually around 60 per cent goes to the buyer and around another 30 per cent to the consumer experience officer. “We establish contact with the brand and obtain samples for testing,” explains Zhang. ![]() Those lash bars that popped up in the aughts? Menus got longer with the addition of new brow services.Then comes the evaluation stage. The brow-obsessed dabbed hair regrowth ointments intended for the scalp across their faces, used lash conditioners to thicken what they had naturally, and practiced darkening and filling in brows with the plethora of powders, pencils, pomades, and tinted gels that hit the market for for extra oomph. Models and the over-tweezed immediately started trying to undo whatever damage that had been done. Then came 2012, the year a British model and socialite named Cara Delevingne landed her first big fashion campaign for Burberry, walked the Chanel couture runway, and was anointed by Karl Lagerfeld as the It girl. Delevingne's distinctively thick, boyish, archless, legitimately bushy eyebrows couldn't be missed. The Backstory: In the 1990s and 2000s, most fashion-conscious women were seeing professional brow groomers and requesting highly manicured, thinned-out, arched looks. The Icons: Cara Delevingne, Keira Knightley, Lily Collins, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, and Hilary Rhoda To really rock the mod look, over-the-top lashes were often paired with colored shadow-white was a favorite hue-and thick black eyeliner. The lower lashes were so dramatically dark and lengthy (verging on clumpy) that they resembled spiders' legs. It didn't take long for other young women to adopt the wide-and-bright-eyed effect, characterized by extra-long false lashes made from human or synthetic hair along the upper and lower lids and tons of black mascara. The latter's falsie-featuring face covered every magazine worth looking at (Mary Quant Cosmetics is credited with helping to create the mod makeup look). London was the center of it all thanks to The Beatles, "mod" fashion boutiques, and It girls Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy. Music was new and brash, skirts were short, and body-exposing cutouts were regarded as no big deal by the stylish set. The Backstory: Youth dominated in the swinging '60s, due in part to the baby boom at the end of WWII. The Icons: Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Penelope Tree, Brigitte Bardot, and Edie Sedgwick ![]()
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